The path curved past pink Italian Palazzo-styled buildings and a swan-graced lake.
In one direction lay a Riviera-inspired swim club with Greco-Roman columns, green-and-white striped awnings, and an infinity pool that seemed to extend into the adjacent lake. In the other direction were lush green fairways on the very last stretch of the Great Plains at the mouth of hundreds of miles of the Rocky Mountains.
We strolled in the bright sunshine in a whimsical daze. For our teenagers, it was an introduction to The Broadmoor. For my wife and me, it was a homecoming to our fairy-tale destination wedding nearly a quarter century ago.
This Gilded Age elegance meets the Colorado frontier, created more than 100 years ago by Spencer and Julie Penrose, after Spencer amassed a fortune in the gold rush amid American ascendancy. Yet unlike their industrialist contemporaries or European aristocrats, the Penroses did not hide their luxury in a private estate; it was—and remains—an experience open to the public through their succession plan.
The Visionaries Behind the Resort
Spencer Penrose was a man of his time. A rugged mining industrialist turned Great Gatsby-like figure.
Born into a prominent Philadelphia family, he attended Harvard and then moved west in search of fortune. For five years, he failed to find his entrepreneurial niche until he eventually joined childhood friend Charles Tutt in Colorado Springs, where he bought into a gold mine out of the famous Cripple Creek. He had some initial success there, then struck it big in copper mining in Utah and continued to make Colorado Springs his home.
The gregarious Penrose was among the town’s most eligible bachelors, which attracted the attention of widow Julie Villiers Lewis McMillan. They had already been courting when the two happened to be on the same cruise ship to Europe in 1906. They traveled together, and Penrose proposed. They married in London. The newlyweds stayed on an extended honeymoon for months, experiencing European culture, art, and cuisine.
Over the next decade, the couple traveled extensively, experiencing the charms and hospitality of grand hotels and building an extensive art collection.
“It was important to Julie and Spencer that they have their own European castle/hotel that reflected their extensive travels to Europe in their home city of Colorado Springs, but it also needed to have a flair of the West,” Cynthia Leonard, the Broadmoor’s historian, said through our recent email exchange.
Various accounts describe what happened next. Penrose reportedly attempted to buy the town’s most prestigious hotel, the Antlers.
Some say his offer was refused; others say he held a grudge after being denied service once while he was covered in soot from the mines. One tale even has him riding his horse into the lobby, causing a ruckus.
However, the Antlers, like the city of Colorado Springs at the time, was largely dry due to the legacy of its founder, Gen. William Jackson Palmer, who had established the area as a temperance community. Yet the gregarious Penrose enjoyed his cocktails and entertaining, and he would later become a prominent voice against prohibition.
In 1916, the Penroses moved on from the Antlers and instead bought The Broadmoor Hotel and Casino just outside of town, beyond the reach of the city’s dry laws, in the scenic foothills near Cheyenne Mountain. It’s said the small “A” in the Broadmoor logo is an intentional slight on the Antlers, although there is some debate over that.
The Penroses aimed to convert the Broadmoor site into the world’s finest hotel, drawing on their extensive travels.
While there’s no way to measure, by all accounts, the couple succeeded! Spencer was the “make-it-happen” guy, and Julie led the style and interiors. They brought over many artisans and culinary experts from Europe. No expense was spared.
While the Penroses respected the great master traditions of the old country, they equally revered the pioneers of the West.
“This is very evident in the lobby, with traditional paintings of Colorado landmarks next to traditional European images, and by the putti above the elevator wearing complete Native American headdresses,” Leonard said.
Throughout The Broadmoor, one can take in a few pieces from Penrose’s original art collection alongside the present owner, Philip Anschutz’s, extensive Western Art Collection, which celebrates the early days of the Wild West. As an homage to Spencer, the hotel today gifts each room with a copy of one of his favorite poems, “Out Where the West Begins” by Arthur Chapman.
The Penroses believed that wealth was not meant to recreate a European lord’s lifestyle but to serve the public good by building roads, hotels, parks, and public landmarks.
“It was also Spencer’s idea that if people came to visit his hotel, then they also needed things to do,” Leonard said regarding all of the other development undertaken by the Penroses surrounding the hotel.
“He built roads to Pikes Peak and Cheyenne Mountain, started the Hill Climb, built the Shrine, Cheyenne Mountain Zoo, golf course, swimming and spa facilities, Polo fields, an Ice Skating arena, Penrose Stadium, and the Cog Railway to Pikes Peak. He controlled Gray Line Touring and the water system. Julie had Pauline Chapel built, started The Broadmoor Art Academy (now Colorado Springs Fine Art Center), revived the Central City Opera, built Glockner’s cancer research center (now Penrose Hospital), and supported the Sisters of Charity.”
To preserve their life’s work and ensure that The Broadmoor fulfilled their vision for generations, they created a succession plan.
“By creating the El Pomar Foundation, it has carried on Spencer and Julie’s legacy, and they operated the resort until tax laws changed and they had to divest,” Leonard said. “They were able to find a family (Gaylord, and then Philip Anschutz) that had the same thoughts about the property that would also honor the Penrose legacy.”
Falling in Love with The Broadmoor
Thanks to the Penroses’ vision of preserving The Broadmoor, countless couples, families, and groups have created their lives’ most cherished memories here.
Indeed, I remember the exact moment when my wife Christine fell in love with The Broadmoor.
We were living in Denver, planning our wedding to welcome our East Coast family to Colorado. We had to cancel the first venue after my grandfather’s cardiologist ruled it out because of its high elevation—more than 10,000 feet. We were disappointed, as we wanted the wedding to be classy yet still have that authentic Colorado wow factor.
To cheer up Christine by finding an alternative venue, I suggested that we visit this place in Colorado Springs with a regal-sounding name.
When we entered The Broadmoor’s long driveway, with its manicured lawns, limestone fountains, flags, and stately front facade, we perked up. After a warm greeting from the formally attired valet, we wandered around the lobby.
We found the escalator and ascended to an overwhelming grand reveal–the indoors and outdoors merged into one sweeping visual heightened by classical music: The lake, the mountains, the frescoes on the ceiling, the opulent traditional interiors, and the magnificent grounds.
That was it—love at first sight. Overwhelmed, my wife knew this was the place she had always dreamed about. It’s as if we entered into an illustration in our favorite children’s princess fairy tale, returning to a strangely familiar place. Time itself seemed to slow down and bend to The Broadmoor’s will.
Every staff member reinforced the fairy-tale experience, from the maid to the general manager. The service was so attentive and gracious, yet informal, perfectly appropriate for a Rocky Mountain Castle.
As the big day approached, we took day trips and overnights to plan the various aspects of the affair, strengthening our bond with our happy place. We began to notice that even a short visit would melt away life’s stresses.
The wedding felt like we were starring in a surreal movie. The ceremony took place on a lawn, backdropped by Cheyenne Mountain, as a string quartet played Canon in D in perfect late-afternoon weather. We held the cocktail hour on a patio adjacent to the lake. A jazz band entertained the reception, and late into the evening, we danced to a bluegrass trio.
I remember the joy and pride of dancing with my mom, Elaine, to Stevie Wonder’s “You Are the Sunshine of My Life” and Christine dancing with her father, Emory, to another Stevie Wonder wedding classic, “Isn’t She Lovely.”
The rule of thumb for flat-landers visiting The Broadmoor is that one drink equals two at the mile-high elevation and that you need more hydration. As we left the reception area at the end of the night, we saw one college friend sleeping soundly on a chaise chair by the lake, close to the outdoor fireplace, while another woke up in a sand trap, confused!
We shared these and many other stories over strong coffee and eggs the next morning as we gathered for brunch, looking out on that lush golf course and the Rocky Mountains one last time.
I could imagine the Penroses among us, satisfied that their vision from more than 100 years ago was still alive through another weekend of successful celebrations and lifelong memories—Julie approving of the ceremony and savoring the taste of it all, and Spencer appreciating the antics lubricated by fine drink.
While hosting your event at The Broadmoor is a splurge, anyone is welcome to stop by, grab a cup of coffee and a pastry, and enjoy the grounds and artwork as the Penroses intended.
Returning With Kids
Twenty-three years later, Elaine and Emory are no longer with us, yet we’ve been blessed with new life as we returned with our teenage kids, Grace and Mason, extending our family’s connection to The Broadmoor to a new generation.
After arriving and settling in, we found it motivating to do more than just “chill-ax” (as Mason would say) at the lake or in the luxurious room, with so much to see and do.
Eventually, Mason and I hit the golf course and then enjoyed paddle tennis sessions. The girls went to the spa repeatedly.
The literal and figurative “peak” of family bonding happened on the “Soaring Adventure” zipline course in the canyons near Seven Falls. Christine was terrified of heights and almost bowed out, but watching her overcome her fear made the experience unforgettable. We hooted and hollered in exhilaration as we soared hundreds of feet above Cheyenne Mountain’s South Canyon, finishing with a thrilling rappel in full view of Seven Falls.
Dining
For family bonding, the meals were among the trip’s most memorable highlights. Ristorante Del Lago featured rare delicacies sourced and imported from Italy exclusively for The Broadmoor. The French cuisine and stunning views of the lake, mountains, and downtown lights from the Penrose Room were truly elevated. And there was a surprise: Behind a bookcase was a hidden speakeasy, complete with a balcony for smoking cigars—a nod to old Prohibition days.
One night, we split up: the ladies headed to the contemporary Summit, while Mason and I caught a game at Play at The Broadmoor, the resort’s sports bar and bowling alley.
However, hands down, the most memorable meal was the decadent Sunday Brunch, hosted in the same room in which we held our wedding reception. Between courses, Christine and I posed for a photo dancing in the very spot where we shared our first dance and cut our cake as newlyweds. We then walked off the meal with a stroll around the nearby Garden of the Gods, a must-visit for anyone visiting Colorado Springs. The kids scrambled on the rocks as Christine and I snapped photos and warned them not to climb too high.
While it took us 23 years to return, The Broadmoor was even better than we remembered. Age and experience helped us fall even more in love with this place, anchored in European and Western charm. In a world continually evolving into cold modernity, a place with timeless traditional warmth feels even more special.
As the Penroses imagined, built, and preserved through their succession plan, The Broadmoor is out where the West begins.
When You Go
There’s so much to do at The Broadmoor, but the best thing is doing nothing: Grab a rocking lawn chair, relax by the lake, and walk the paths that wind from outdoors to indoors, ducking into buildings to take in the art.
Getting There
The Broadmoor sits in the foothills above downtown Colorado Springs. Colorado Springs Airport is the closest option, although Denver International offers more direct flights. From Denver International, the drive is a bit more than an hour.
Rooms
All accommodations are tastefully luxurious, ranging from single rooms to multi-room family townhouses to opulent suites.
Food
More than a dozen dining options range from ultra-fine dining and sports bars to coffee shops, the famed Golden Bee English pub, grab-and-go spots, in-room dining, outdoor patios, and bottomless gourmet brunches.
Activities
Seasonality comes into play here. You will find world-class golf and tennis facilities, outfitters for outdoor adventures, a full-service spa, and nearby attractions such as the Garden of the Gods (a must) and the U.S. Air Force Academy. You can coordinate reservations online or through the knowledgeable, welcoming concierge desk.
For information on all of the above, visit Broadmoor.com
The author was a guest of The Broadmoor.
Out Where the West Begins
by Arthur Chapman
Out where the handclasp’s a little stronger,
Out where the smile dwells a little longer,
That’s where the West begins;
Out where the sun is a little brighter,
Where the snows that fall are a trifle whiter,
Where the bonds of home are a wee bit tighter,
That’s where the West begins.
Out where the skies are a trifle bluer,
Out where friendship’s a little truer,
That’s where the West begins;
Out where a fresher breeze is blowing,
Where there’s laughter in every streamlet flowing,
Where there’s more of reaping and less of sowing,
That’s where the West begins.
Out where the world is in the making,
Where fewer hearts in despair are aching,
That’s where the West begins;
Where there’s more of singing and less of sighing,
Where there’s more of giving and less of buying,
And a man makes friends without half trying—
That’s where the West begins.
