When you hear an official slogan like, “The City Beautiful,” what urban center springs to the top of your mind? I’m going to guess it’s probably not O-Town. And that’s not necessarily a bad thing. In fact, Orlando and its suburbs have worked hard to assemble an array of the most impressive theme parks on Earth, from Walt Disney World to Universal Studios and beyond.
The city’s roller coasters, multimedia shows, and costumed characters have captured the imagination and drawn millions of visitors every year. But this sprawling metropolis in central Florida is also a place of green spaces, lakes, history, and culture. It is, in fact, rather beautiful.
You just need to know where to look. If you simply rock up, check into the Grand Floridian, and don’t go beyond, you’ll never discover all the other attractions that make Orlando surprising. So, after perhaps a dozen visits, here’s my guide on exploring beyond the theme parks.
Arrival
While some people assume that MCO, the IATA code for Orlando International Airport, is a winking reference to Mickey Mouse, it’s actually rooted in the airport’s history. The first planes to take off from here were 1940s military aircraft, at what became McCoy Air Force Base (which closed in 1975).
MCO welcomes nonstop flights from London, Paris, Lisbon, Lima, and even Dubai, plus pretty much every major city in America. Despite almost-constant crowds, it’s a pleasant, well-organized (and thoroughly air-conditioned) place to land.
Getting from the airport to your destination would be simple if the latter were singular. Disney and Universal, for example, run direct buses from MCO to their on-site hotels. But since Greater Orlando covers some 4,000 square miles, exploring its varied attractions will definitely require a car. Fortunately, the airport offers an abundance of agencies that will be very happy to rent you one.
A Note About Theme Parks
I am certainly not against theme parks. Some of my fondest memories as a kid were loading up our two-tone gray Pontiac Bonneville and driving it to Disney. Any visit to Orlando can be a hybrid—some time on the rides, and the rest exploring.
But be aware: Things have changed a great deal in the last few decades. Despite their many wonders, the parks are pricier and busier than ever. Even if you do visit them, you’ll almost certainly need a break. All of the below will provide any respite you might need.
Winter Park
This quaint but super-cool neighborhood feels like a village, and that’s because it was once a whole separate place. Now just a short drive northeast of downtown Orlando, Winter Park was founded in the 1880s by a few wealthy businessmen from northern states. They were presumably sick of the snow, and definitely enchanted by Florida’s sun and the lakes.
They created their own subtropical paradise in the form of the Seminole Hotel. They connected it to the railroad and came down for illustrious vacations. Think horseback riding by day and stringed orchestras playing the evening away.
This is one spot in Orlando where you can park the car and enjoy a stroll down the tree-lined streets, under little awnings of Spanish moss. Take time to step into the galleries and museums. As for meals, some of the best restaurants in town are right here.
For something truly special, book well in advance for one of the 10 coveted seats at Soseki. This Michelin-starred restaurant serves up several courses of Chef Michael Collantes’s take on the traditional Japanese dish, omakase. He puts it all together with local fish, meat, cheese, and vegetables. Save room for some sake throughout the meal.
Alternatively, relax at The Ravenous Pig, an upscale gastropub that offers elevated versions of your favorites, from a wagyu Reuben to Florida swordfish piccata.
Close by, the Harry P. Leu Gardens are an excellent place to visit in Orlando. These botanical gardens cover 50 acres and include flowing fountains, plants from around the globe, and even, happily, a butterfly garden.
Lake Eola Park
This is a true oasis right in the middle of a major urban center. Often named at the top of “best city park” rankings, the calm little lake, on a sunny day, reflects Orlando’s glassy skyline. The bandshell hosts concerts and movies, and you can pedal out on the waters aboard a swan boat.
I mostly come here for something simple: a breath of fresh air and the chance to stretch my legs. The path that encircles Eola is just under one mile in total. On lucky occasions, I’ve even encountered a turtle or two along the way.
A Sporting Chance
With 12 months of sunshine a year, Orlando is a really excellent sports town during all seasons. That includes golf, fishing, and other outdoorsy pursuits, but also holds true for spectator sports.
Downtown, the city’s NBA team, the Orlando Magic, holds court. I like to go a little early and have dinner at one of the restaurants around South Orange Avenue, a couple of blocks from their home at the Kia Center. Or I’ll book a table at Jernigan’s Restaurant, right inside the arena. There, I can browse the buffet and carving stations while simultaneously keeping track of the hoops being played below.
There’s nothing quite like bowl season. This series of small post-season championships played in December and January dates back to the first Rose Bowl, played in California on Jan. 1, 1902. Since then, the number of these games has greatly expanded, generally held in warm climates and domes. Each one is a world unto itself, with each team bringing in their own traditions, hype, and fun. Orlando is a natural host, and Camping World Stadium will be home to two bowls this season.
I attended one a couple of years ago. No, the match on the field was not good—the Tennessee Volunteers blew out the Iowa Hawkeyes by a lopsided score. Still, I had an absolute blast. Arriving early, I wandered around the festival set up outside the stadium. A convivial atmosphere prevailed, and I chatted with fans completely decked out either in bright orange or black and gold, the colors of the two teams. I watched people ride a zip line and a mechanical bull. And tapped my toe to the sounds of the marching bands as they moved by. It was a fun moment in the sun when much of the rest of the nation was freezing.
Thoughts on the Brightline
This is a common dilemma for travelers who want to visit both South and Central Florida. If you’ve flown in, the drive is long-ish, and the cost of picking up a rental car in one location and dropping it in another can be cost-prohibitive. Flying between the destinations is definitely possible, but most certainly a hassle.
That’s why I love the Brightline. I’m an unabashed rail fan, so pretty much any train ride will make me smile. But this fairly new line, connecting Miami with Orlando (with stops in Fort Lauderdale, Boca Raton, and others), is a game-changer. Clean and fast, the seats are cool and comfortable, especially in premium class. The carriages will spirit you from downtown Miami to MCO with ease.
Offbeat Theme Parks
Sometimes, it’s nice to have thrills and chills without the absolute commitment of an expensive ticket. In that case, consider Icon Park. It’s a mix of shops, restaurants, and rides, and you only pay for what you enjoy (and no more). So have some old-time fun on the carousel, or get a 360-degree view from the top of the towering observation wheel. After the Museum of Illusions (trust me, you need to see it to believe it), settle in for some Southern barbecue or Gordon Ramsay-style fish and chips.
Dezerland Park is something else entirely. This strange and wonderful place features one of the largest car collections in the world. I’m not a car guy at all and expected to just breeze through, jot a few notes, and make a quick exit. But I ended up fairly entranced and stayed for hours. I loved the entire room dedicated to James Bond automobiles and aircraft, and another filled with Batmobiles that appeared on screen. There are also Harleys and hot rods, classic cars, and lots more. Every turn brought a new surprise.
Which is, perhaps, to be expected, in a city like Orlando.
